The Ivy Climbing Up Your Chimney Is Pretty. But.....

Many years ago my wife and I had a date night at the movies and we got a call from the babysitter telling us that the rubber supply hose on the washing machine had burst and there was water everywhere! Luckily her father was home and ran over quickly to turn the valves off. Rubber or plastic washing machine hoses are common due to their low cost and availability, but they come with several disadvantages that can lead to costly damage and maintenance issues. One of the primary concerns is their lack of durability compared to stainless steel braided hoses. Over time, rubber and plastic materials can degrade, crack, or burst under high water pressure, especially in older hoses or in households with frequent washing machine use. This makes them more prone to sudden failures, which can cause extensive water damage. Another disadvantage is their susceptibility to temperature extremes. Rubber and plastic hoses can weaken when exposed to high water temperatures from hot water cycles or fluctuating temperatures in uninsulated areas like basements or garages. These conditions can accelerate wear and tear, increasing the risk of leaks or ruptures. Additionally, rubber hoses may become brittle with age, making them even less reliable over time. Maintenance and longevity are also significant drawbacks. Rubber and plastic hoses typically need to be replaced more frequently than more robust alternatives, such as stainless steel braided hoses. Homeowners must routinely inspect these hoses for signs of wear, including cracks, bulges, or discoloration, to prevent potential failures. While they are an economical option initially, their shorter lifespan and higher likelihood of causing water damage can make them more expensive in the long run. Upgrading to reinforced or braided hoses is recommended for a safer and more durable solution.

Whoops! Looks like the HVAC contractor didn't do a good job of securing the vent hose to the fan housing. Most homeowners never go up to their attic so how would they know? Venting a bathroom fan to the exterior is essential for maintaining proper indoor air quality and preventing structural damage. Bathroom fans are designed to remove moisture, odors, and airborne particles generated during showers or baths. Directing this exhaust outside prevents humidity from accumulating within the home, which can lead to mold growth, rotting wood, and damaged drywall. An exterior vent ensures that moist air doesn’t linger, protecting both the building’s structure and the health of its occupants. If a bathroom fan is not vented to the exterior, the expelled air may be redirected into an attic, wall cavity, or another enclosed space. This creates an environment where excess moisture can accumulate, fostering mold and mildew growth. Over time, these conditions can compromise the home’s structural integrity, leading to costly repairs. Additionally, mold spores and damp conditions can exacerbate respiratory issues and allergies for occupants, posing significant health risks. Improper venting also reduces the fan's effectiveness, as it merely redistributes humid air rather than removing it from the home. This can result in persistent condensation on mirrors, windows, and walls, which may eventually peel paint or damage finishes. To avoid these issues, it’s crucial to ensure that bathroom fans are properly vented to the exterior, using insulated ducts to minimize heat loss and prevent condensation within the venting system.

Asbestos-wrapped heating pipes were commonly used in older homes and buildings because asbestos is an excellent insulator and resistant to heat and fire. However, the presence of asbestos in heating systems poses health risks. Over time, the asbestos-containing material can deteriorate, releasing microscopic fibers into the air. Inhalation of these fibers can lead to severe respiratory issues, including asbestosis, lung cancer, and mesothelioma, which are often fatal and have no cure. The risks associated with asbestos-wrapped pipes are heightened during renovations, repairs, or disturbances to the insulation. When the material is cut, drilled, or otherwise agitated, asbestos fibers can easily become airborne. These fibers are nearly impossible to detect without specialized equipment, making it difficult to assess exposure. Even brief exposure can accumulate over time, as the fibers remain lodged in the lungs for years, causing long-term damage. To address the danger, homeowners should never attempt to remove or handle asbestos insulation themselves. Professional asbestos abatement services are essential to safely encapsulate or remove the material, following strict safety guidelines to prevent contamination. In some cases, encapsulation—sealing the asbestos in place with a protective coating—can be a cost-effective solution if the material is in good condition. Regardless, any home with asbestos-wrapped heating pipes should undergo an inspection by a certified asbestos professional to determine the best course of action for protecting the health of occupants.

Laundry drainage systems must effectively handle the large volumes of water discharged by washing machines while preventing backflow and contamination. A typical setup involves a standpipe connected to a P-trap, which is then tied into the home’s main drainage system. The standpipe must be tall enough (usually 18–30 inches) to prevent overflow and positioned close to the washing machine to ensure efficient drainage. Proper slope in the drainage pipe is also critical to avoid water pooling or blockages. Air gaps play an essential role in laundry drainage by preventing cross-contamination between the washer’s discharge and the home’s water supply. An air gap creates a physical space between the drainage hose and the standpipe or other drainage point. This gap prevents backflow caused by a clogged sewer line, protecting the washing machine and the household plumbing system from wastewater contamination. Modern washing machines often include built-in air gaps or rely on proper installation to maintain this safeguard. Alternatives to traditional air gap setups include installing backflow prevention devices (as seen in this picture) or using standpipe extensions with anti-siphon features. Backflow preventers are mechanical valves that allow water to flow only in one direction, ensuring that wastewater cannot re-enter the washing machine. Another option is a laundry sink, where the washing machine drains into a basin before entering the home’s drainage system. This approach offers an additional layer of separation and simplifies maintenance, making it a popular choice in utility rooms or older homes.

Chrome-plated P-traps are a common choice in plumbing for their sleek appearance, but they have several weaknesses that can make them less ideal in certain situations: 1. Corrosion Vulnerability Despite the chrome plating providing some protection, these P-traps are typically made from materials like brass or steel, which are prone to corrosion over time. If the chrome plating is scratched or damaged, the underlying metal becomes exposed to water and air, accelerating rust or corrosion, especially in high-humidity environments. 2. Durability Issues Chrome-plated P-traps are less durable compared to plastic or stainless steel alternatives. Over time, the chrome finish can chip or flake, especially when exposed to abrasive cleaning products or physical impacts. Once the plating deteriorates, the P-trap's structural integrity and aesthetics suffer and then it starts to leak! 3. Higher Cost and Maintenance Chrome-plated P-traps are more expensive than plastic (PVC) P-traps, yet they often require more maintenance to keep their appearance intact. Fingerprints, water spots, and tarnishing are common, requiring frequent cleaning and polishing to maintain their shiny finish. 4. Limited Flexibility Unlike PVC or flexible P-traps, chrome-plated models are rigid and less adaptable during installation. This can make them more challenging to fit in tight or unconventional spaces without precise alignment of plumbing components. In summary, while chrome-plated P-traps offer an attractive appearance, their susceptibility to corrosion, durability concerns, higher maintenance requirements, and limited flexibility make them less practical for long-term use in areas prone to moisture or heavy wear.

The picture of the toilet seat is more fun than anything, but it is a "no-touch" application of my infrared camera to make sure things are working right. You can also see the heating elements warming up the marble bathroom floor. An infrared camera is a valuable tool for home inspections, as it allows inspectors to identify hidden issues that are not visible to the naked eye. Infrared cameras work by detecting heat signatures, which can reveal temperature variations in a structure. These variations often indicate potential problems, such as water leaks, insulation deficiencies, or electrical hazards, enabling homeowners or buyers to address issues before they worsen. The primary use of an infrared camera in home inspections is detecting moisture intrusion. Leaks from roofs, plumbing systems, or windows can cause temperature differences that the camera can capture. These images help pinpoint the source of the problem, even if the leak is behind walls or under flooring. Early detection of moisture issues can prevent mold growth and structural damage, saving significant repair costs. Infrared cameras also help identify insulation and air leakage problems. Poor insulation or gaps in a home’s thermal envelope can lead to uneven heating or cooling and increased energy bills. By highlighting these areas, inspectors can recommend targeted improvements, making the home more energy-efficient. Additionally, the cameras can reveal overheating electrical components, such as overloaded circuits or faulty wiring, which pose a fire risk. Using an infrared camera during a home inspection enhances the thoroughness and accuracy of the evaluation. While it doesn’t replace traditional inspection techniques, it provides an additional layer of insight, helping homeowners or buyers make informed decisions about repairs or maintenance. Many larger firms charge extra for a "Luxury Package" that includes thermographic imaging. I include this in my standard service!

The other day, a buyer asked me if I could check out the large swing set that came with his new home. To build some good will, I told him that even though it wasn't included in the State Standards of Practice that I would still inspect it as a courtesy (It seemed pretty sturdy). Home inspections are designed to assess the overall condition of a home, but there are several items typically not included in the inspection. These exclusions often fall outside the scope of the inspector's responsibilities or require specialized knowledge or equipment. Commonly excluded items include: Appliances and Systems Not Permanently Installed: Portable appliances, such dehumidifiers and window unit air conditioners are often not inspected. Inspectors usually focus on built-in appliances, but even those may not be tested for full functionality beyond basic operation. Specialized Systems and Features: Components like swimming pools, hot tubs, septic systems, recreational equipment (swing sets) and irrigation systems are generally not part of a standard inspection. These items often require separate evaluations by specialists. Hidden or Inaccessible Areas: Inspectors typically don’t inspect areas they cannot safely or easily access, such as behind walls, under carpets, or in areas with no access points (e.g., sealed attics or crawl spaces). Additionally, they do not test for environmental hazards like mold, asbestos, or radon unless specifically requested and qualified to do so. To address these gaps, homeowners or buyers may need to hire specialized inspectors for a more comprehensive assessment.

This is a carpenter ant "Gallery", which is the formal term for the nest where they hang out. As an Internachi-Certified Wood Destroying Insect Inspector, I point out signs of and presence of wood destroying insects, but I won't actually call out the specific variety because I'm not a licensed specialist. I leave that to the experts. The most common insects causing damage here in the northeast are termites, carpenter ants and carpenter bees. Greenwich Home Inspection Carpenter ants can be a significant problem because they damage wood structures by excavating tunnels to create nests. Unlike termites, they don’t eat wood, but their tunneling weakens structural integrity over time. If left unchecked, an infestation can lead to costly repairs in homes, furniture, or other wooden structures. These ants are also highly adaptive, making them challenging to detect and control. Greenwich Home Inspection To manage carpenter ant infestations, early identification is crucial. Look for signs such as wood shavings, hollow sounds when tapping wood, or large black ants indoors, particularly near wood or damp areas. Eliminating moisture sources and sealing entry points can help prevent infestations. Keeping firewood or wood debris away from the home and trimming trees that touch the house are additional preventive measures. Greenwich Home Inspection If an infestation is discovered, professional pest control services are often the most effective solution. Experts can locate nests, identify satellite colonies, and apply targeted treatments using baits or insecticides. For a DIY approach, ant baits containing boric acid can be used, but thorough application and monitoring are necessary to ensure long-term success.

Earlier this year I inspected a house with vinyl siding. There didn't appear to be any problems. There was a sliding door to the deck at the second floor which had water damage and some rot at the threshold. I called out the damage and recommended that the buyer immediately get it fixed because water damage can lead to structural damage and mold. I checked underneath the sliding door at the interior of the home and there was no musty smell, staining or mold evident on the sheetrock wall even though there were some drip marks inside that I called out. This was not unexpected due to the water damage at the threshold above. A month later the client closed on the house, started repairs, and found extensive water damage and structural damage. I almost fainted at the site of it, and asked myself "How could I have missed this"? It was bad... There were a couple of factors at play here. 1) The vinyl siding was in good shape and looked to be installed properly. It covered all evidence of the water damage behind it. 2) At some point in time, the previous owner pulled the sheetrock off the wall at the first floor and added a layer of plastic before replacing the sheetrock and repainting the walls thus locking in any moisture damage behind the plastic. The buyer was a contractor and walked the home with me during the inspection. Upon return to the property, before I could say anything, he looked me in the eye and told me, "There's no way you could have known". He was right.... A home inspection is defined as "A Visual, Non-Invasive Inspection of the Property". Unless the inspector takes apart the walls, there is no way to know what's hiding out of site.